Vickers PVB Piston Pumps (PVB5, PVB6, PVB10, PVB15, PVB20, PVB29, PVB45, PVB90): Parts Catalog & Rebuild Guide

Vickers PVB Piston Pumps: Parts Catalog, Service Data & Rebuild Guide

The Vickers PVB series piston pumps, covering PVB5, PVB6, PVB6A, PVB10, PVB15, PVB20, PVB29, PVB45 and PVB90, are variable displacement axial piston pumps widely used in industrial power units, presses and machine tools. The M-PVB variants are the motor versions of the same frames. RestoPower supplies OEM or aftermarket equivalent seal kits, rotating groups, valve plates, shafts and bearings for the complete PVB line.

Exploded View and Parts Diagrams by Frame

Use these alongside the rebuild steps below. Each frame has its own breakdown, so work from the diagram that matches your model code.

PVB5 and PVB6

PVB6A

PVB10 and PVB15

PVB20 and PVB29

PVB45

PVB90

Download Service Data PDFs

How to Rebuild a Vickers PVB Piston Pump

The PVB is a straightforward pump to rebuild provided the work is done clean and the valve plate goes back the right way round. Follow the steps below with the diagram and service data PDF for your frame open alongside, since torque values and wear limits differ between the PVB5 and the PVB90.

Before You Start

Wash the outside of the pump before anything comes apart. Grit on the housing ends up in the rotating group.
Drain the case and read the oil. Bright metallic glitter means the rotating group or a bearing has failed and a seal kit alone will not fix it.
Record the compensator setting by counting turns before you back it off, and photograph the port and control orientation.
Work on a clean bench with lint free cloth and have clean hydraulic oil ready for assembly lubrication.

Step 1: Remove the Compensator

Count and record the turns as you back off the adjusting screw, then remove the compensator valve and keep its shims and spring together. Inspect the spool for scoring or varnish. A sticking compensator spool is one of the most common reasons a PVB will not build or hold pressure, and it is often mistaken for a worn pump.

Step 2: Remove the End Cap and Valve Plate

Loosen the end cap bolts evenly in a crossing pattern and lift the cap straight off. The valve plate usually stays stuck to the cap face. Note which side faced the cylinder block before it moves. A valve plate refitted backwards will wreck the pump within minutes of starting.

Step 3: Withdraw the Rotating Group

Slide out the cylinder block with its pistons, retainer and retainer plate as one assembly where the frame allows. Keep every piston in its original bore, marking them if necessary. Pistons bed into their own bores over time and swapping them increases internal leakage on a rebuilt pump.

Step 4: Shaft, Bearings and Yoke

Remove the shaft retaining ring and press the shaft out from the drive end. Inspect the yoke trunnions or saddle bearings and the housing bores for fretting. Check the shaft seal running surface for a wear groove, since a grooved shaft will leak straight through a new seal.

Step 5: Inspect and Decide

Cylinder block face: must be flat and unscored. Light polish is fine; radial scratches you can catch a fingernail on are not.
Valve plate: replace if the kidney ports are eroded or the sealing lands are grooved.
Piston shoes: check retention and end float. Any shoe that rocks or has lost its running face condemns the whole set, and shoes are replaced as a set, never singly.
Bearings: replace as standard during a full rebuild. They cost little against a second teardown.
Springs: check the cylinder block spring for free length against the service data.

Step 6: Reassemble

Fit every seal from the kit, lubricated with clean hydraulic oil, never grease.
Install the shaft seal lip inward using a proper seal driver so it is not cocked.
Refit the valve plate the correct way round and confirm its locating pin is seated.
Prefill the case with clean oil before the end cap goes back on. A dry start is a leading cause of a failed rebuild.
Torque the end cap and housing bolts evenly in a crossing pattern to the values in your frame PDF above.

Step 7: Test and Run In

Turn the shaft by hand before installing; it should rotate smoothly with no hard spots. Start at low speed with the compensator backed off, bleed the case and lines, then wind the setting back to the turns you recorded. Run unloaded for several minutes, then load gradually while watching case drain flow and temperature.

Common PVB Faults and the Parts That Fix Them

Oil weeping at the shaft: worn shaft seal. If it returns quickly, the shaft itself is grooved.
Will not build pressure: sticking compensator spool, worn valve plate, or a tired rotating group.
Will not hold the compensator setting: compensator spring or spool wear.
Noisy on start-up: inlet restriction, low oil or aeration. Fix the cause before condemning the pump.
Overheating at normal flow: internal leakage past the block face or piston shoes.

Shop OEM or Aftermarket Equivalent PVB Replacement Parts

Frequently Asked Questions

How do you rebuild a Vickers PVB piston pump?

Drain and clean the pump, record the compensator setting, remove the compensator and end cap noting the valve plate orientation, withdraw the rotating group keeping pistons in their bores, inspect the block face, valve plate and shoes, then reassemble with a new seal kit, prefill the case and torque the end cap evenly before running in unloaded.

Can a Vickers PVB pump be rebuilt?

Yes. The PVB is designed to be serviced with a seal kit plus replacement wear parts. A reseal is economical, and a full rotating group replacement is worth doing on the larger frames.

Why will my PVB not build pressure after a rebuild?

The two usual causes are a valve plate fitted backwards and a compensator spool that is sticking. Check both before dismantling further.

How long does a PVB rebuild take?

A reseal is a few hours. A full rebuild with inspection and test is about a working day.

Related Catalogs

Need help finding the right parts? Contact us at info@restopower.com or call (810) 882-1171 and we will confirm fitment the same day.